MADEIRA,

The rosy building housing this Portuguese restaurant is a Warren Avenue landmark. The pink color scheme carries into the dining room, which is also hung with photographs of the island. An enticing start is the camarao alhinho, shrimp sauteed in butter, wine, garlic and hot pepper sauce ($6.95). The sizable pork and littlenecks entree ($9.75) features chunks of marinated pork loin simmered with clams and roasted potatoes. Bacalhau (dried codfish) is offered in several variations, as are squid and octopus. Best of all, many dishes are served with Portuguese fries, a pleasing cross between thick potato chips and round French fries.